Thursday, 29 March 2012

A step by step guide for MAXImum impact...

It's not a misprint, the title is more of a play on words. MAXI being the clue, the time has come to deliver a step by step guide on how to make a maxi skirt. (I mentioned it in an earlier post if you remember?!) 

I personally am a very inexperienced person when it comes to sewing, I appreciate it but as I've mentioned before, it intimidates me and I as a perfectionist, the thought of messing something up or it not being completely correct terrifies me even more! 
So, I think the best place for us all to start is at the beginning, ready?!

Step numero uno... 

We traced around a basic skirt block (usually made of either card or plastic) and marked all the notches and darts required. 
We then extended the skirt on the pattern paper; as it only came above the knee we made it floor length by measuring our own leg.

Step two...

Now that you've got the first draft, we traced over the pattern and marked in the darts.
We then, from the start of the dart point, drew a line straight down toward the the bottom of the skirt (repeated this for the second dart also) and then slashed back up the drawn on lines. 

Three...

This made it so much easier to close the darts from the top of the front skirt pattern piece, to close it, we had to hold the top together so it fell into place and used masking tape to secure. 
For the hem of the skirt it had to have a circular look to it, so with the slashed pieces raining free we used  the set square and placed it on a 45 degree angle and marked off the bias grain line. We were using the bias to create fluting. 

Number four...

With the new adapted pattern piece before us, to carry on with the skirt we had to yet again trace around the adapted pattern by securing it onto more pattern paper (it isn't the most economical of processes I know, but needs must and we wasted as little as possible!) We traced around and added notches where required as we went and added seam allowance. 
Key, instead of putting a grain line we approached the set square (a pattern cutters best friend) and placed in on a 45 degree angle and marked off the bias line. 

Step five...

The pattern had finally met completion, so we chose our fabric (mine being a very vibrant striped design which has a really light weight feel to it, perfect for a summers day I'm hoping) and placed our pieces on the fabric. 
We folded the fabric at yet another 45 degree angle so that it lay diagonally across the table making it easier to fit the pattern pieces ready for cutting. (Before cutting any kind of pattern piece, a quick tip, always pin pattern paper pieces to the fabric you wish to use, left loose you wont have a very accurate or reliable outcome. Better to be safe than sorry so pin accordingly!)
OH, and the waistband, we cut out two pieces on the straight grain line which was from the measurement of our waist and we also cut out the interfacing from this too leaving. 1.5cm seam allowance at the width ends. 

Numero seis... 

We then began the manufacturing process, the dreaded sewing machine was there right in front of me waiting to be pursued. When I first sat at a sewing machine, I felt like I was almost loosing my virginity all over again, why? Because it was a whole new experience, it's always going to be unpredictable no matter who you are and really intimidating first time around.
Anyway, enough of my analogies...
First we ironed out any unnecessary creases and sewed one side with a 1.5 cm seam allowance. We then ironed open the seams and over locked separately.

Seven...Usually my favourite number....


Over locking down both sides of the skirt ready to apply the zip.
We then attached the concealed zip, firstly pinning down to ensure security and then sewed onto the skirt fabric using a special foot on the sewing machine. With a 1.5cm seam allowance once again, we sewed up the side with this time a normal machine foot leaving a couple of centimetres open which we again sewed with the alternative foot.
This foot allowed us to sew closely to the zip without leaving an open seam.

Number ocho... 

The waistband was then attached to the skirt, but only once we'd ironed the interfacing on to the necessary waistband piece.
We stitched once length of the waistband with ow the interfacing on, 1.5 cm seam allowance (as usual) and stitched both width's leaving one length untouched for now.
We then chopped down the 1.5cm seam allowance to 0.5cm because no body wants a bulky waistband (go figure.) We then turned it inside out and pinned the right side of the fabric to the wrong side of the skirt and stitched on the waist band, again with that trusty 1.5cm seam allowance.

( I hope all of this isn't too complicated to understand because I know I've got lost once or twice but it's only natural to be baffled by what you don't know, they reassure me it only gets easier with time and practise though...)

The waist band was then ironed in half and then top stitched the waistband to the skirt making sure there was a few centimetres left off for the button hole.


Step nine...


We hemmed the circular hem by over locking and the folding the 0.5cm hem twice.
Then, we ironed this in place and stitched over 0.5cm.

Last but not least, step ten...


We created a button hole stitch in the leftover waistband with a button sewing machine and then sewed  on the button.


Now we all know what it takes to make the trusty maxi. As soon as they're available, photographs will be uploaded for evidence.

Adios. 

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